Exploring long distance trade in Somaliland (1000-1900
AD): Preliminary results of the 2015-2016 field seasons
Alfredo González-Ruibal.
Incipit-CSIC, alfredo.gonzalez-ruibal@incipit-csic.es
Jorge de Torres.
African Rock Art Image Project, British Museum, JDeTorres@britishmuseum.org
Manuel Antonio Franco.
Incipit-CSIC, antonio.franco.fernandez@gmail.com
Mohammed Abdi Ali.
Department of Tourism, Ministry of Sports, Youth and Tourism of Somaliland.
Abdisallam Mohamed Shabelle.
Department of Tourism, Somaliland, shabeletour@hotmail.com
Candela Martínez Barrio.
Incipit-CSIC, candelamb@gmail.com
Khader Ahmed Aideed.
Department of Tourism, Somaliland.
Abstract
Somaliland was a key region in the trade routes connecting the Mediterranean, the
Middle East and the Indian Ocean from antiquity to the nineteenth century. However,
little archaeological work on this topic has been carried out in the region to date. A new
project by the Spanish National Research Council (CSIC) intends not only to assess the
role of Somaliland in the Indian Ocean network, but also to understand indigenous
societies, their participation in long distance trade and the impact this had on their
sociopolitical organization and culture. In this article, we present data from two field
seasons (2015, 2016). We conducted a preliminary survey of the ports of Zeila and
Berbera and the latter’s hinterland, and gathered important information on the
relationship between Somaliland and the wider world, between coast and interior, and
between merchants and indigenous communities during the second millennium AD.
Keywords
Indian Ocean trade, long-distance trade, Islamic Middle Ages, Ottoman Empire,
nomads.
Introduction
The participation of the Eastern African coast in the Indian Ocean network has attracted
increasing attention from archaeologists in recent years, working in prehistoric (Boivin
et al. 2013), ancient (Tomber 2008; Seland 2014) medieval (Hawkes and Wynne-Jones
2015; Zhao 2015) and modern periods (Croucher 2014). This can be considered as part
of a wider trend for revaluing Africans’ participation in global networks in the past
(Mitchell 2005). The impact of long distance connections in African and Asian contexts
has been re-assessed, along with the history of indigenous communities and endogenous
historical processes, both on the coast and inland (Kusimba et al. 2013; Fleisher et al.
2015). This has helped to balance a picture that was biased towards the foreign element.
The study of long-distance trade in antiquity has been particularly intense in the Red
Sea basin, between Egypt and Eritrea, whereas the medieval and modern periods enjoy
from a well-established research tradition in Tanzania and Kenya. Lying between these
two zones, Somalia has been largely forgotten, in large part due to the conflicts that
have ravaged the region for the last four decades. The situation has started to change in
the de facto state of Somaliland, where several projects in recent years have revealed the
enormous archaeological potential of the region (Gutherz 2002; Hirsch and FauvelleAymar 2011; Mire 2015).
The cultural dynamism and long-distance connections of Somaliland during the
Middle Ages had already been glimpsed in the 1930s. Between 1930 and 1934, A.T.
Curle, a colonial administrator, employed his free time surveying the so-called ruined
towns of the area east of Hargeisa and the eastern Ethiopian borderland, of which he
inventoried 18 (Curle 1937). He did some survey and limited test pitting, which yielded
a variety of import materials, including celadons1 of the Song and Ming dynasties
(twelfth -fifteenth centuries AD), blue and white porcelain (sixteenth-seventeenth
centuries AD), Egyptian and Ottoman coins, Persian pottery and Egyptian glass,
including perfume bottles and bracelets (Curle 1937: 320-322). However, no further
archaeological work on the medieval towns of Somaliland was carried out before the
investigations of François-Xavier Fauvelle-Aymar and his team in 2007 (Fauvelle-Amar
et al. 2011), except for very brief visits by Neville Chittick (1976) and Huntingford
(1978). Fauvelle and his team worked mainly in the town of Zeila, one of the main ports
before the nineteenth century along the Somali coast. They conducted sondages in the
1
Chinese green-glazed wares have not been analyzed yet. We refer to celadons generically, although we
are aware of the inadequacy of the term.
Qiblatayin mosque, reputedly the oldest in sub-Saharan Africa, although the
excavations could not find evidence antedating the thirteenth century. Test pits were
also dug in-between the Qiblatayin mosque and another medieval religious building, the
Shahari mosque. The excavations and some surface collections in the refuse heaps along
the northern shore of Zeila, already identified by Curle, yielded a variety of materials
from the eighteenth to the early twentieth century, although some earlier pottery was
also found. The town of Ferdusa, in the Berbera hinterland, and surrounding area were
also preliminarily explored. Unfortunately, the project was discontinued shortly after it
had begun.
Drawing upon these previous experiences, the Institute of Heritage Sciences of
the Spanish National Research Council (Incipit-CSIC) started a new project in 2015 to
explore long-distance trade in Somaliland. The idea is to study both the role of the
region in the Indian Ocean networks and the local cultural processes, including the
sedentary communities and the nomads, of whom virtually nothing is known, apart from
the existence of numerous tombs and cairns (Chittick 1992; Mire 2015). Our project
takes a long-term perspective: we intend to examine the period comprised between Late
Antiquity and the Ottoman era, which is when long-distance connections seem to be
more intense. For this, we planned a series of surveys and excavations in different
sectors of the coast and the hinterland. So far, we have conducted two field seasons
(2015 and 2016).
Some survey work has already been carried out in the country (Curle 1937;
Chittick 1976; Fauvelle-Aymar et al. 2011; and particularly Mire 2015), but the
published data for each of the inventoried sites is, with a few exceptions (FauvelleAymar et al. 2011), very limited. In fact, under labels such as megalithic sites or towns
there might be, as we will try to show in this article, sites of very different nature and
chronology. Therefore, instead of finding new places, we decided that it could be more
productive to visit those that were already known through the published literature or
through the work of the Ministry of Culture and Tourism of Somaliland, which was
undertaken in large part by one of us (Mohamed Abdi Ali). We selected the sites that
looked more promising a priori for the objectives of the project. The data gathered in
those sites cover a period comprised roughly between 1000 and 1900 AD. No clear data
related to ancient trade have been located to date, but those for later periods are rich and
diverse. Relevant evidence of the involvement of Somaliland in long-distance trading
networks during the second millennium was collected, as well as of the indigenous
participation in it. Data were gathered in four kinds of sites: ports, inland towns, caravan
stations and nomadic spaces (Figure 1).
Figure 1 Area of study in NW Somaliland. 1. Bulahar; 2. Bender Abbas; 3. Qorgab; 4. Bagan ; 5.
Qalcadda ; 6. Qubuuraale; 7. Iskudar; 8. Ferdusa; 9. Gidheys.
Ports
Our project targeted the area comprised between the two most important historic ports
of Somaliland: Zeila and Berbera, as well as their immediate hinterland. After a first
visit to the region, we decided to focus on the Berbera area and its hinterland for the
second field season. Here, we surveyed three coastal towns, which are complementary
in terms of their main material remnants: Berbera is a typical example of nineteenth
century Ottoman architecture; in Bulahar we were able to document traces of a long
history spanning from the thirteenth century to around 1900, whereas Bender Abbas
seems to have had a shorter occupation, ca. 1000-1400 AD. In turn, Zeila yielded
materials covering the second millennium AD, with a peak around the fourteenthfifteenth centuries AD.
Zeila
Zeila was one of the most important ports of the Somali coast until its decline at the
beginning of the twentieth century. The old city has virtually disappeared due to the
ravages of time and war. However, for at least a millennium Zeila was the main
emporium of Somaliland, from which the products of the Horn were shipped to the
wider world and a variety of imports entered the continent. Some consider that this was
the ancient port of the Avalites mentioned in the first-century AD Peryplus of the
Erytraean Sea, although no archaeological evidence has come forward to support this
theory. From the tenth century AD onwards, however, it is mentioned in several Arab
sources (Fauvelle-Aymar et al. 2011). At that time, it was a small non-Muslim port from
which hides, incense, ambergris and tortoise shell were exported (Fauvelle-Aymar et al.
2011: 54). The town disappears from Arab sources for a couple of centuries and
reappears at the end of the twelfth , which marks the beginning of the Islamization of
the region (ibid.: 60-61). Its heyday seems to span from that moment until the sixteenth
century, when it is sacked by the Portuguese in 1517 and again in 1528. However, the
town continued to be an important multicultural trade center until well into the
nineteenth century, at times depending on Moccha (Yemen). Thus, Zeila is described as
“the only town with permanent trading facilities and government... frequently visited by
Arab, Afar and Banyan ships” (Abir 1968: 15).
During our work, we recorded some of the ruined historical buildings in the
town using digital photogrammetry—including the Shahari Mosque and several
Ottoman arcades (Figure 2)—and revisited the dumps near the Governor’s house where
surface materials had previously been collected by Curle and Fauvelle. We found a
large amount of green glass (perfume flasks, phials and some beakers). There are many
containers with pushed-up, dome-shaped bases (fig. 3, nºs. 9 and 11) and loop-like (nº.
8) or thickened bulging rims (nº7), all of which have good parallels in Egyptian toilet
bottles of the ninth to twelfth centuries (Shinnie and Shinnie 1978: 84-85; Lester 1996:
202-207; Rougeulle 2015: 327-328, figs. 234-235). There are also some examples of
bottles with ring bases (fig. 3, nº 10) with parallels in thirteenth-fourteenth century
levels at Shanga (Horton 1996: 316, fig. 25) and phials (fig. 3, nºs 2 and 12), again with
parallels in the Kenyan site, where they are dated between the twelfth and fifteenth
centuries AD (Horton 1996: 316, fig. 241) (Figure 3).
Figure 2 Orthogonal image of Ottoman-era arcades in Zeila.
All pottery recovered from the dumps is imported. The materials that we
collected seem to be older than those detected by Fauvelle-Aymar et al. (2011) and
predate almost in their entirety the British occupation. Finds include many Chinese and
Japanese porcelains, most of them dated to the eighteenth-nineteenth centuries (witness
to the relevance of trade at that time), but also many older materials, including a
fragment of an early Ming bowl (fourteenth - fifteenth centuries) and a fragment of a
late fifteenth century Jingdezhen bowl (Figure 4), many fragments of celadon,
monochrome turquoise-glazed pottery and blue and white frit –the latter two from
southern Iran and dated between the fourteenth and seventeenth centuries (Priestman
2013: 612-615; 635-636). In addition, we recovered a large amount of ribbed bangles in
green and dark blue glass (a minimum number of 50), for which a thirteenth to fifteenth
century date is most likely. They were used as a sort of currency and are frequent in
other Red Sea settlements of the period (Insoll 1997: 386). No materials predating the
early second millennium AD were found during our survey, but the items documented
show the importance of Zeila during the fourteenth to sixteenth centuries, which is
consistent with its political role during this period, as a main city of the Adal Sultanate.
The artifact scatters can be interpreted as dumps associated to a harbor area, as they lie
along the northern beach of the town. To document older periods it would be necessary
to conduct test pits, which has not been possible for the moment.
Figure 3. Glass beaker, bottles and phials from Zeila.
Figure 4. Chinese and Japanese porcelain from the harbor dumps of Zeila, all eighteenthnineteenth centuries, except B4 (Chinese, fourteenth-fifteenth century) and B5 (Jingdezhen, China,
late fifteenth-early sixteenth century).
Berbera
A port is supposed to have existed in Berbera since Antiquity, but the town itself is not
mentioned before the thirteenth century. After it was sacked by the Portuguese in 1518,
little is known of its fate before the nineteenth century (Lewis 1960: 217). When
Richard Burton visited the place in 1855 he found only the ruins of four towers and
temporary huts erected by the people coming to Berbera to trade (Burton 1856: 408), so
the town had doubtless declined after the sixteenth century, despite being the center of a
multicultural fair that is described as “one of the most important commercial events of
the east coast of Africa” at the beginning of the nineteenth century (Burton 1856: 408410; Abir 1968: 16). As it stands, the town is basically the product of the Egyptian
occupation after 1870 (Turton 1970: 358). The present architectural ensemble is very
coherent in terms of style and includes merchant mansions, commoner houses and
mosques, which were probably constructed in the short period between 1870 and the
British occupation of the town in 1884, which explain their homogeneous character.
Domestic architecture bears important similarities with the Red Sea style, whose roots
go back to the sixteenth century (Um 2012), and has good parallels in other coastal
towns like Suakin (Philips 2014). Larger houses systematically occupy street
intersections, have the greater spatial control and enjoy a high degree of spatial
permeability and visibility (Figure 5). They are two or three stories high with
commercial storerooms at ground level and have plastered facades, topped by
crenellations, and often lavish woodwork (jalousies and verandahs). Commoner houses
have only one story and are not usually plastered. Both commoner and elite structures
are made of coral and have semicircular doors and windows. The urbanism diverges
from that typical of the Red Sea in that it is of an artificial character, typical of a
colonial undertaking: the town follows a rigid orthogonal plan. Two Turco-Egyptian
forts exist in the surroundings of Berbera: a large one with barracks and administrative
buildings controlling the harbor, which is partially destroyed, and another one in Dubar,
overlooking a natural spring that provided water to the city.
Figure 5. Elite Turco-Egyptian house in Berbera. Commoner houses can be seen in the
background.
The latter was mapped using digital photogrammetry. Materials found at the site
include some Chinese porcelain, transferware, Turkish ware and spongeware all dated
to the late nineteenth century. The place was apparently bombed during the Second
World War, as shown by craters with remains of bomb fragments. Shell casings, tin
cans and a trench dug around the wall indicate its use as a stronghold at that time.
However, traces of an older occupation also exist and include a wheel-turned jar with
wavy decoration, typical of Yadhgat (Yemen) between the 10th and 11th centuries AD
(Rougeulle 2015: fig. 158), and a polychrome bangle, which has close parallels in a
later level from the site of Debeira West, Sudan (Shinnie and Shinnie 1978: 94-95),
which can be dated around the twelfth century AD and in the Dahlak Islands (Insoll
1997). The bangle is similar to bracelet type D1 of Spaer (1992: table 3), which has a
Mamluk (1250-1517) and later chronology. Ancient glass and pottery had been
observed here already in 1848 (Cruttenden 1849: 55-56), but much certainly
disappeared with the construction of the fort three decades later. In any case, the
medieval materials associated to a fortified site controlling the town’s water supply can
be taken as evidence for the existence of an ancient occupation in Berbera.
Bender Abbas
Ten kilometers along the coast to the east of Berbera there is a place called Bender
Abbas which was perhaps an emporium of similar importance, if not Berbera’s forebear.
The site is today mostly covered by sand dunes, as it lies immediately behind the beach.
However, a portion of about three hectares has been exposed by wind and rains.
Although they have destroyed most of this sector of the site, they have allowed us to
take a glimpse at its history. The site occupies a flat consolidated dune which is almost
completely covered in pottery sherds, glass, bones, shells and other remains. There is
only one substantial building, a large rectangular structure (13 x 6.5 meters), which had
brick walls over stone foundations. The use of bricks is unknown in Somaliland, but is
well attested in the Persian outposts of Yemen (Rougeulle 2015). We excavated a test
pit in one corner of the building, but the structure turned out to be eroded underneath the
pavement, so we could only document the foundations (Figure 6). The other structures
visible on the surface are Muslim burials that probably postdate the occupation of the
settlement. Human bones could be seen protruding from some of the tombs, including
those of an infant.
Figure 6. Location of the artifact scatter of Bender Abbas (dashed area) in relation to the coast;
remnants of a large building with stone foundations and brick walls; plan and cut of the test pit in
the building.
The vast majority of the materials documented in the site are imports from a
variety of places. Pottery is mostly wheel-turned, while a minority of hand-made vessels
evince exchanges with the indigenous communities. Most of the domestic pottery has
parallels in Yemen, although some cooking pots with edged rims and complex profiles
are clearly Indian: they are abundantly represented in Yemen, though (Rougeulle 2015:
figs. 172, 173, 176, 301) (Figure 7). A Yemeni origin can be assigned to several
fragments of soapstone vessels, too (Rougeulle 2015: 369-371). Fine wares comprise
Iranian sgraffiato pottery (4 MNI of monochrome mustard, 3 polychrome and 1
hatched) and many celadons, including what seem to be early productions. There are
also many glass fragments, predominately pertaining to beakers and bowls (cf. Horton
1996: 312-315) and less frequently to flasks and phials (MNI=3 out of 15), a situation
that is the reverse of that documented at Zeila. Several personal ornaments were found,
mostly of foreign origin: five glass beads (2 green, 1 yellow, 1 turquoise, 1 deep red),
of which two are of Indo-Pacific type (Shay and Poissonnier 2016: 67-68) and a
carnelian cabochon, probably from Gujarat (Hawkes and Wynne-Jones 2015). IndoPacific beads become common from the 11th century onwards, whereas carnelian has
been attested in East African sites as early as the seventh century AD. A limestone
pendant, a pendant on an ammonite and several perforated cowries (Cypraea annulus)
were also documented.
Figure 7. Pottery from Bender Abbas: A. Mustard Ware (Yemeni Yellow); B. Iranian sgraffiato; C.
and Indian cooking pots; D. Yemeni pots and storing jars.
Subsistence activities documented at the site included fishing (fish bones, net
sinks) and animal husbandry. Bones of sheep/goat and cattle were plentiful all over the
site. In some cases, they appear in dense concentrations, mixed with some ashes and
charcoal, indicating dumps of organic refuse. Goats and sheep could have been raised
locally, but it is highly unlikely that that was the case with cattle, since the site is
located in a desert environment. Its presence might be indicative of exchanges with
highland pastoralists. Several rotary quern stones in volcanic rock were found reused in
the tombs.
In general, the pottery assemblage is almost identical to that of Sharma in
Yemen, which is a Persian outpost dated to the tenth-twelfth centuries AD (Rougeulle
2015). However, Bender Abbas might have had a longer occupation, as suggested by
the presence of some Yemeni Yellow (Mustard Ware) (MNI=3), which can be dated to
the thirteenth-fourteenth centuries (Kennet 2004: 53). The population of the “Port of
Abbas” was probably foreign as well, as both domestic pottery and the brick structure
indicate. Sirafi migrations are known between the tenth to twelfth centuries, which led
to the foundation of several emporia along the Arabic coast of the Red Sea (Rougeulle
2015: 472-473). During the tenth and 11th centuries, Siraf was the main trading center of
the Persian Gulf, with extensive connections with Arabia, China and India (Ricks 1970:
345-348). The variety of imports documented in Sirafi colonies shows that the
merchants brought these connections with them in their diaspora. Bender Abbas could
thus be a Persian establishment, or one with a Persian element to it, on the African side
of the Red Sea. It is possible that it was a secondary foundation dependent on any of the
coastal towns that emerged along the northern shores of the Gulf of Aden.
Bulahar
The last port that we were able to visit was Bulahar (also transcribed as Bulhar,
Bulloxaar, etc.). This is considered one of the historic coastal towns of Somaliland, with
Berbera and Zeila, although much less is known about it. Despite its vicinity to Berbera,
its privileged location in a main route leading to the highlands and next to a large wadi
probably explains the town’s foundation. Its impressive ruins cover around 15 hectares,
with a central core of dense construction of about 6 hectares (Figure 8). The buildings
are mostly Ottoman, although there are also several Turco-Egyptian structures: with
Berbera, the place was occupied by the Egyptians in 1870 (Turton 1970: 358). At that
time, it is described as “the greatest marketplace of the country” by a German traveler
(Haggenmacher 1876: 36). If we are to believe a British colonial officer, it still
maintained its status in 1890: “The ports of Berbera, Zeila, and Bulhar have
considerable trade, which is increasing every year. The principal exports are sheep and
goats, gum, hides, and coffee (from the interior), and the chief imports are dates, rice,
and other food-grains, piece goods (mostly American), salt, &c.” (Nurse 1891: 663).
The architecture of arcades in coral stone resemble closely those of Zeila and can be
probably dated between the sixteenth and early nineteenth centuries. However, there is a
wall with triangular niches that might be of older date: similar features have appeared in
the town of Amud (Curle 1937: 318, pl. II; Huntingford 1978: 184), which is dated to
the sixteenth AD and before. Niches for displaying china are characteristic of Swahili
architecture (Horton 1996: 41-44). More recent structures are a fortlet, military barracks
and a two-story building that can be dated to the Turco-Egyptian occupation of the
1870s.
Figure 8. Map of the center of Bulahar. 1. Wall with triangular niches; 2. Ottoman arcades; 3.
American school from the mid-twentieth century; 4. Turco-Egyptian building; 5. Sheikh Seberein
mausoleum.
Three places yielded artifacts: one of them is the tomb of Sheikh Seberein,
situated in the eastern part of the town. An entire incense burner and fragments from
several others turned up in front of the mosque—with no relation to the building, which
seems to be of nineteenth century construction (Figure 9). They appeared mixed with
bones of sheep or goat. Near this site appeared some green-glazed sherds as well. The
assemblage can be dated roughly during the early second millennium AD. A second
place with findings is an area of ruined buildings adjacent to the beach. Most of the
finds are dated to the late nineteenth century: Turkish painted ware with crescent moons
and stars, Scottish spongeware, and Japanese and Chinese porcelain, which would
corroborate Haggemancher’s and Nurse’s description of Bulahar as an important trade
center in the late nineteenth century. The Chinese porcelain is identical to that recorded
by Fauvelle et al. (2011: fig. 2.4) in Zeila. We also recorded two beads (one
polychrome, one monochrome), a polychrome glass bead and several celadon sherds
that might be of an earlier date.
Figure 9 Incense burner found with fragments of others and faunal remains in front of Sheikh
Seberein mausoleum (early second millennium AD).
The place that provided more finds is an area of ruined buildings that had been
recently exposed by erosion. The great accumulation of pottery sherds and bones
(goat/sheep and fish bones) suggests that it is a dump area. Three dumps were found,
with materials spanning a wide period, from the Middle Ages to the nineteenth century
(Figure 10). The medieval assemblage is composed of local hand-made pottery
(including two fairly complete incense burners, similar to those of Sheikh Seberein),
wheel-made domestic pottery with wavy decoration of Yemeni origin, Mustard Ware
also from Yemen, and a glass bracelet with wavy decoration identical to examples from
the Dahlak Islands (Insoll 1997). The Yemeni pottery can be dated during the thirteenth
to fifteenth centuries, thus offering a tentative date for the older layers of Bulahar. Later
material (sixteenth - early nineteenth centuries) comprises Ottoman wheel-turned
pottery, polychrome glass bracelets, monochrome cobalt-blue bracelets with pressed
decoration, and shisha pipes. The late nineteenth century is represented by overglaze
painted cups, bowls and dishes from Turkey and the Netherlands, Scottish spongeware,
and Chinese porcelain, a set that is ubiquitous elsewhere in Africa and the Persian Gulf
(Malan and Klose 2003; Grey 2011). Bulahar offers an enormous challenge to
excavators, as it is largely covered by thick deposits of rubble, dunes as tall as six
meters above the original ground, and mangrove. However, the materials documented
on the surface of the site demonstrate both the long history of the town and its diverse
long-distance connections.
Inland towns
The establishment of coastal towns from the late first millennium AD onwards has to be
understood in connection to the emergence of sedentary settlements in the interior. The
relationship between the two phenomena is one of the issues that we intend to elucidate
with this project. A priori, it seems that the arrival of merchants was a boost for the
creation of permanent settlements. The label of towns that has been used to describe
these centers, however, is misleading. During our surveys, we identified sites of
different size, monumentality and occupation span, which suggest a rather complex
landscape. During the 2015 and 2016 field seasons we visited four “towns” in the
hinterland of Berbera: Qubuuraale, Bagan, Ferdusa and Gidheys. We decided to focus
on this area, because the towns along the route from Zeila to the interior are slightly
better know (Curle 1937; Fauvelle-Aymar and Hirsch 2011; Huntingford 1978): these
include Maduna, Qorgab, Abasa and Amud, all in the surroundings of the modern town
of Borama. As we mentioned at the beginning, surveys and limited excavation by Curle
identified ruins of mosques and documented imported materials. However, we did pay a
visit to Qorgab for the sake of comparison. This is a small settlement of two hectares
Figure 10 Finds from the dumps of Bulahar: A. Ottoman shishas; B. Wheel-turned jars with wavy
decoration (fourteenth-fifteenth c.); C. Local incense burners (early second millennium AD); D.
Chinese porcelain bowl (late nineteenth century).
composed of several rectangular stone structures, most of them with two rooms. A lot
pottery was seen on the surface, all of it indigenous and hand-made. It is characterized
by rough modelling and thick temper. The majority of the vessels are bowls and open
pots with everted, thickened rims. Storing jars with inverted rims and an incense burner
were also documented. The indigenous ware is quite different from the one we have
seen in the hinterland of Berbera, except for the horizontal handle, which appears in
both areas. We only found one imported item on the surface: a rim from a celadon bowl.
The location of most medieval towns, around Borama and elsewhere, is very similar:
they are situated near the limit of the escarpment that divides the highlands of
Somaliland and the coastal plain and along the main routes connecting coast and
interior. There is, however, a notable internal diversity within the sites labelled as
towns.
Qorgab, Bagan and Gidheys are similar. They are large villages, more than
towns proper. They have a surface of less than six hectares and are composed of less
than a hundred stone structures, either rectangular or square in shape. Most have only
one or two rooms, but a few display more complex layouts. The cell module is of
around 20 square meters. Houses typically have between 20 and 50 square meters in
plan (although the smaller size is more prevalent) and are elevated over the surrounding
ground. The walls are made of two rows of stones with well-dressed faces to the outside
and inside. All the sites are located beside a seasonal course of water which allows for
some cultivation at least during part of the year. In turn, places like Amud, Abasa or
Ferdusa are settlements of 20 or more hectares (Figure 11). Although the location,
organization of the space and architecture are similar, the larger settlements usually
have monumental public structures (mosques) that are absent in smaller sites.
Figure 11 Comparison of four “towns” in Somaliland: A. Gidheys; B. Bagan; C. Amud; D. Ferdusa.
A and B from maps made on the ground with GPS; C. from satellite images; D. from satellite
images and GPS data on the ground.
Bagan
With 6 hectares, Bagan is the largest settlement of the three. We draw the plan of Bagan
with two handheld GPS, thus making it the first medieval settlement in Somaliland to be
fully mapped (Figure 12). Fortunately, in this and other sites all or virtually all stone
structures are visible on the surface, due to high erosion and very limited sedimentation,
so we can assert with some certainty that if not all, probably over 90% of the structures
of Bagan were mapped. A total of 85 were recorded, many of which are to be identified
with corrals or other annexes, rather than houses, due to their small size and poor
construction. Apart from this, a burial area with two small cairns was recorded 200 m to
the NE of the settlement. Two other cairns flank the road that gives access to the town
next to a ford of the river that flows to the SW of Bagan, around 800 meters in a straight
line from the site.
Figure 12 Map of Bagan and pottery from surface collection: 1. Incense burner; 2. Bottom from a
celadon bowl; 3. Wheel-turned cooking pot; 4-7. Indigenous pottery.
The map shows that there is no obvious geometric arrangement of the houses
within the settlement in the form of streets, squares or buildings that articulate the space
around. This does not mean that there is no order whatsoever, but that the order
responds to a sociocultural logic that is not translated into a clear geometric layout.
In fact, the arrangement of the buildings in Bagan is redolent of the organization
of nomadic campsites, with wide spaces between buildings and structures clustered in
small groups that may correspond with compounds of extended families. Furthermore,
the idea of the campsite is further reinforced for what seems to be a ring of structures in
the center of the site. The interior of the ring is occupied by an empty, flat area covered
with gravel, probably a public space, and several multi-roomed buildings whose size is
considerably bigger than the rest. Among these buildings, a square structure surrounded
by a spacious courtyard stands out, which has parallels in the town of Amud
(Huntingford 1978: 184). At present it is difficult to know whether these structures
belonged to some sort of elite group, were ritual/social spaces or all of them. The
organization of some of the large structures clearly suggests a domestic use: they started
as single-celled or two-celled buildings and grew by addition of other rooms. We did
not find many artifacts on the surface. Elements related to trade include the bottom of a
celadon cup, a sherd of celadon of a different fabric, two bangles in blue glass, and
some cowries (Cypraea annulus). Several fragments of indigenous pottery were
documented, among which several rims and handles. All pots are hand-made, with
thickened, flat rims, decorated on the edge by impression and/or incision. Only the rim
is decorated. There seems to be a very limited array of forms, a feature shared by the
pottery assemblages of all the local medieval settlements. A ubiquitous element, here
and elsewhere, is the horizontal handle. A decorated incense burner similar to those
documented in Bulahar and Iskudar (see below) was also found. Apart from pottery, a
dozen iron slags were recovered. There is not enough evidence to date Bagan with any
precision, but we would suggest a rough chronology of 1000-1500.
Gidheys
Gidheys is similar to Bagan, although of smaller size (around 2 hectares, of which only
have are densely occupied). There are many tombs in the site, some of which probably
post-date the use of the settlement. Among these tombs, the oldest are probably groups
of adjacent cists made of quartzite slabs, with two stelae, one to each end. Although the
structure is similar to Islamic tombs, they may not be, as the orientation is E-W, instead
of towards Mecca. The architecture of the houses is similar to the one seen in Qorgab
and Bagan and documented in other places (Curle 1937; Huntinford 1978): one- or tworoomed buildings in stone of rather small size, with quadrangular or rectangular layout.
The level of destruction here and the amount of rubble prevented us from identifying
individual buildings as we did in Bagan. In any case, the number is obviously much
smaller, although they seem to be more densely packed. We were able to find very little
material on the surface: this is limited to some indigenous hand-made pottery, a
fragment of which with typical incised decoration, a sherd from an imported wheelturned cooking pot, and a blue glass bracelet. The chronology is probably similar to that
of Bagan and Ferdusa. Gidheys is located in a natural route leading to Ferdusa (38 km
away), which is dotted with cairns and tombs. Those that are closer to Gidheys are two
circular graves made of large slabs and filled with small stones (Figure 13). Without
excavation, it is difficult to ascertain whether they are contemporary to the site.
Figure 13 Circular tomb with orthostats near the “town” of Gidheys.
Ferdusa
If there is a place that can be properly defined as a town this is Ferdusa (modern
Sheikh), located 60 km to the south of Berbera. The ruined town, also known as
Fedowsa or Fardowsa, lies in a plateau immediately after the mountain pass that
connects Berbera with the interior, a strategic position which undoubtedly was
fundamental for its development and growth. With a surface of around 35 hectares,
Ferdusa is the biggest town in the area. The site is located to the north of the modern
village, whose expansion has severely affected its southern part and destroyed many of
the structures, but in the central area buildings are still surprisingly well preserved, in
some cases with walls over a meter and a half tall. As happens with the rest of
settlements of this type, there is no evidence of urban planning, the buildings being
scattered throughout the area, although they are more concentrated to the east of the site.
No remains of public buildings—like mosques—were documented during the survey of
the place, but they surely existed, given the size of the town. Rubble and bush prevent
from adequately identifying each of the structures that make up the site.
Information about Ferdusa was first published by Fauvelle-Aymar et al. (2011:
41-42) who visited it briefly and documented the general characteristics of the site.
During his survey they collected an Arab coin, glass bracelets, cowries and a significant
amount of pottery sherds, either glazed or unglazed and including some Chinese pieces
of porcelain, which provide a chronology of the fourteenth-fifteenth centuries. The
author suggests the height occupation for the site between the thirteenth to the
eighteenth centuries. During the 2016 field season, the site was surveyed again and the
entire perimeter was recorded, increasing the area previously estimated for the
settlement.
In addition, two sondages (FER01 and FER02) were conducted to the northeast
and the southwest of the site. To the northeast, a square structure with at least two
rooms was selected following the evidence of several medium sized pots broken but still
in their original position, in what seemed the entrance to the building. A bead of
translucent crystal and a piece of mother of pearl (probably a pendant) decorated with
incisions and punctuations were found around near the structure. A test pit of 2 x 1.5
meters was excavated, showing the remains of a poor quality pavement only preserved
to the south. Under the pavement and the wall foundations, a series of layers alternating
ashes and soil were documented (SU 1003, SU 1005-1007), reaching to a depth of 0.40
meters and yielding a significant amount of animal bones, including a vertebral spine
still in anatomical connection. Pottery was abundant too, consisting mainly in coarse,
undecorated sherds, in some cases burnt. Unfortunately, due to some problems with the
owners of the land, the excavation could not be finished and had to be refilled without
reaching the end of the archaeological deposits.
The second sondage provided far more interesting results (Figure 14). It was
carried out in the southwest of the site, an area affected by the construction of modern
houses, but with remains of older square structures that can be seen scattered among
them. One of these buildings, a two-room structure, was selected, with dimensions of 7
x 6 meters and a partition wall which divided the space in two; and a test pit was
excavated at the southwest corner, between the external and partition walls. The pit had
3 x 2.60 meters and was in-filled by 0.2-0.3 m of an undisturbed collapse level (SU
1006) under which existed a thinner layer of soil (0.15 – 0.2 m) probably corresponding
to the abandonment of the building. In this layer a number of significant pieces were
documented, including several glass fragments of good quality, part of a glass bracelet
and a number of sherds belonging to the same piece of coarse ware. In addition, two
pieces of rotary quern stones were found, with evidence of a prolonged use, lying on the
floor of the house (SU 1009), made of packed earth. The doorstep which communicated
the two rooms has been located at the northwest corner of the test pit, providing
evidence to trace the hypothetical layout of the house.
Figure 14 Plans and stratigraphic cut of the excavation of FER02.
The excavation of FER02 has provided relevant information about the
architectural features of a common house in medieval Ferdusa. Following the local
tradition the house appeared isolated, was of an average size (42 m2), and was built
with middle sized stones bound with mud. The walls were 55 cm wide and the partition
wall (size) was not attached to the external ones. All these features are very similar to
those described by Curle for the towns located in other areas (Curle 1937: 318). The
presence of quernstones in situ suggests that the room that we excavated was used for
food-processing activities and therefore the other could have been the sleeping area.
The materials gathered at FER01 and FER02 did not help us to define the
chronology of Ferdusa, being too generic to date the occupation of the sites. Probably
the most interesting parallel comes from FER02, where some shards of local wares
show strong decorative similarities with those collected at Bagan. This lack of accuracy
is compensated, however, by the relevance of the artifacts collected during our survey
of the site (FIGURE 15 and 16). Imported materials were very abundant and included
celadons, blue and white Chinese porcelain and several types of glazed potteries
including turquoise, green, yellow and whitish examples, as well as two examples of
unglazed sgraffiato very similar to the one found in Qalcadda. Regarding the local
pottery, there is a predominance of middle sized pieces with globular bodies, the
decoration usually consisting in punctuations or incisions on the upper part of the rim.
The smaller pieces have similar decorations, but placed on the body. As mentioned
above, the closer parallels for this indigenous pottery are those found in Bagan, in a
similar if more modest context.
Figure 15 Imported wares from Ferdusa: 1-4. Green/Turquoise glazed pottery; 6-7. Possible
Manganese Purple underglazed-painted ware; 8-9. Green glazed-painted ware (Ayyubid?). 12-14
Celadon. 15 Yellow Yemenite ware. 16. White and Blue glazed pottery; 5, 10-11, 17. Blue and white
Chinese Porcelain
Figure 16 Local pottery from Ferdusa.
Many of the imported materials suggest a chronology which would range
between the twelfth and the sixteenth centuries, slightly older than the one proposed by
Fauvelle-Aymar et al. (2011: 42). This is the case, for example, of several fragments of
a white, iridescent glazed pottery which could be related to the manganese purple
underglazed-painted ware found in Ras-al-Khaimah (Kennet 2004: 51, color plate 10),
with a chronology of the 11th to thirteenth centuries. Some glazed pieces painted in
green could correspond to Ayyubid productions (twelfth -thirteenth centuries). Finally,
some yellow Yemenite (Mustard Ware) shards point to a slightly later chronology
(thirteenth-fourteenth centuries). The more modern materials can be dated in the
sixteenth century, probably marking the final moments of the town which could be
related to the collapse of the Sultanate of Adal, the Ottoman intervention in the coast
and the Oromo invasions that affected the region. If the excavation carried out during
2016 is of any indication, the abandonment happened peacefully and progressively, due
to the disturbance and reallocation of the trade networks rather than a traumatic, violent
episode.
Ferdusa is whithout any doubt, one of the key places for the study of the
medieval trade networks in central Somaliland. Its excellent geographic position, the
entity of the preserved remains and the sample of materials collected point confirm the
potential of the site. The slow but continuous destruction of the site caused by the
growth of Ferdusa makes its study the more urgent.
Qubuuraale
Whereas we can discuss whether the label “town” is more or less appropriate for the
settlements mentioned so far, in the present case we are not even sure if the concept
“settlement” is adequate. Qubuuraale is certainly not a town, but it does not resemble
the settlements describe to date. The site is also located on the escarpment area (in the
Golis Mountains), but in this case it lies on its very edge, with the land falling down
rather abruptly immediately to the north. The ruins occupy a hill surrounded by higher
elevations. This in itself is a peculiar feature, because most “towns” lie either in plateau
areas or on gentle slopes. The hill is limited by a creek to the south and southeast that
has some water all year round. The area has cultivable soils and in fact the valley
bottom is today covered in orchards that grow guava, banana, papaya, vegetables and
sunflowers. Beyond the river, the land is covered by a dense forest of acacia. The site
occupies the top of the elongated hill and has axes of 285 x 50 meters. The structures of
Qubuuraale (Figure 17) have little to do with those of Bagan, Qorgab or Gidheys. First,
there is a wide diversity of buildings, with very different layouts. Second, most of these
buildings are multi-celled. We mapped four of these structures with total station and
GPS.
Figure 17 Map of Qubuuraale with the buildings that can be identified on the surface and detailed
map of one of the buildings. Dashed areas indicate accumulations of rubble.
QUB01 is built on a massive plinth with huge stones, cursorily worked. The
original structure was a two-roomed rectangular structure. Each room is 5 x 5 meters,
therefore the structure had a surface of 50 square meters. A single rectangular room, 15
x 5 meters, with a similar fabric, was annexed at some point, clearly using the same 5 x
5 module. Later, two semicircular structures were added, although these are mere rows
of stone that may be recent (perhaps sheep folds?). The structure is oriented to the SW.
The monumentality of the structure and its isolated location made us hypothesize that it
was a ritual structure. However, no materials were found on the surface that could have
helped the interpretation.
QUB02 is a long structure made by the addition of rectangular rooms. The
compound is oriented N-S and the rooms E-W. We conducted two test pits. The first
(S1) yielded many bones of sheep/goat; the second (S2) only an undiagnostic sherd. No
pavements were found in either case. The walls are very roughly made: in some cases
they are a mere alignment of stones. It seems that only some of the rooms were roofed
and the others were courtyards. The sizes and shapes of the rooms are very different, in
stark contrast to what we saw in QUB01 and, as we will now see, QUB03.
QUB03 has some resemblance to QUB02, but there are also important
differences. The walls are crudely made, with no worked faces. A particular kind of
wall was seen here, that is present in other structures at the site: two rows of slabs stuck
in the ground leaving an empty space inside. This suggests that the walls were made of
brush or some other perishable material, but not stone. It seems that in this case the
structure originated from two two-celled buildings that were annexed at some point. The
maximum axes of the building are 18 x 14 m (NNW and SSW). Interestingly, the
module is the same as in QUB01 (5 x 5 m). The overall aspect is that of a large
domestic compound.
QUB04 is a very spacious unpartitioned structure (10 x 16 meters), with the
longest axe oriented to the SW. A very similar building was documented in the ritual
site of Iskudar, that we will describe later. They have the same size and orientation. In
the case of Qubuurale, the orientation differs from the other buildings and is reasonably
consistent with an alignment to Mecca. It can then be hypothesized that it is a mosque.
Very little material turned up on the surface (or in the test pits, for that matter).
Finds comprise some hand-made pottery, with the characteristic horizontal handles (six
elements have been found) and a globular pot decorated by simple impression. Imports
include the rim of a wheel-made pot, a bottom of Yemenite Yellow ware, two
undiagnostic wheel-turned sherds and a small fragment of blue glass. Other findings
include a fragment of rotary quern stone in volcanic rock, four iron slags and four
cowries (C. annulus as all the cowries documented in our work).
The natural access to Qubuuraale (from the south) is flanked by several big
cairns. The funerary function of cairns has been demonstrated in other cases, both in
Somalia and elsewhere (Chittick 1992, Davies 2013, Fauvelle and Poissonnier 2016:
66-67). No other site has so many large tumuli in the immediate vicinity and those of
Qubuuraale are clearly associated to the site. Before wider excavations are carried out, it
is difficult to ascertain the nature of this site. In the meantime, a religious function for
some of the buildings cannot be ruled out. Unfortunately, the paucity of materials makes
it difficult to date. The bottom of Yemenite Yellow ware is the only firm dating
evidence for the site and places it at the thirteenth-fourteenth centuries AD. The
strategic location of Qubuuraale, in one of the entry points to the highlands from the
coastal plain, might explain its peculiar nature.
Caravan stations
So far, we have discussed two central elements in the long-distance trade networks of
Somaliland: the ports from where the imports arrived and raw materials (incense, ivory,
tortoise shell, ambergris) were exported, and the towns that demanded the imports and
channeled the raw materials towards the coast. However, another element participated
in this network: caravan stations. Many of these probably existed that have left little or
no trace, as they were probably just thorn or brush fences. Others might have had a
stone enclosure and some substantial building and in fact, in the route from Zeila to the
highlands some of these can be seen, although their precise function and date remain
unknown. A very different case is the caravenserai of Qalcadda. The name comes from
the Arabic word (of Persian origin) Qalāt, meaning “fortified place”, and refers to a fort
that stands along the route connecting coast and interior through Bagan and Qubuuraale.
The qalāt is a rectangular enclosure (55 x 90 m) with thick walls around 1 meter high
made of dressed stone. The corners are defended by round bastions. Inside, very few
surface materials turned up: we can mention two tiny fragments of white and blue
Chinese porcelain and celadon.
The fort, however, is just one of the many structures and activity areas that exist
in the place (Figure 18). To the south of the fort there is a flat space where many traces
of walls can be glimpsed. Those that can be more easily discerned form a rectangular,
partitioned nave parallel to the road. All walls are made of dressed stone. From what
can be assessed on the surface, it seems that we have a large building with many rooms
surrounding an open space, which is the typical plan of a caravanserai. The caravensarai
or khan is the typical caravan station of the Middle East. They are particularly popular
between the twelfth and sixteenth centuries (Onge 2007; Tavernari 2009), although
examples exist at least from Antiquity (Thareani-Sussely 2007). They were state or
privately owned, urban or rural, and offered their services to merchants, who used the
premises to pass the night and store their merchandises safely. Caravanserais have
continued to exist until recently and their structure has remained largely unchanged. The
presence of a fort next to a caravan station was quite common, as garrisons were
stationed near the them to secure the roads (Thareani-Sussely 2007: 126-127). Qalcadda
is 85 km away from Berbera through a main road, which means a journey of probably
three days from the coast for an average caravan. It is the first place the caravan would
find with cool weather, pasture and reliable sources of water, after the hot coastal desert.
Figure 18 General map of Qalcadda with the fort, the caravan station and the artifact scatter that
can be indicative of a market area or a place for loading and unloading the caravan.
We conducted a sondage of 2.5 x 4 meters in the main nave of the building, next
to what seems to be an access from the road (figure 19). The structure was sedimented
by 0.6-0.7 m of deposits, covering a lime floor (SU 1006). This was just the last of four
floors, each with its own occupation layer, separated by about 5 cm each. The
penultimate deposit (SU 1007), whose pavement (SU 1008) showed traces of fire with
many fragments of charcoal and ashes, was radiocarbon dated to 318 ± 28 BP (cal. AD
1486-1646)2, which dates the use of the room most likely at some point during the
sixteenth century. The deposit (SU 1004) covering the last pavement (SU 1006) yielded
some materials of interest, including an unglazed sgraffiato-decorated cup and a piece
2
D-AMS 015989 (CAIS 24947).
of indigenous pottery. Over the pavement itself, we recovered two small fragments of
thin green glass, two cowries and a hand-made incense burner or perhaps rather a lamp.
Figure 19 Left: Plan of the main nave of the caravanserai visible on the surface with location of the
sondage. Right: Materials retrieved in Qalcadda during the excavation of the caravanserai (A):
from top to bottom, sgraffiato cup, lamp and indigenous pot; and the survey of the open area (B).
To the other site of the road, there is an artifact scatter covering around 8
hectares. Materials comprise hand-made indigenous pottery, glass, turquoise- and greenglazed pottery, celadons, blue and white Chinese porcelain, tortoise shell and many
cowries. Tortoise is mentioned as an export of Somalia from the early Middle Ages
(Ricks 1970: 343). Indigenous pottery is different from those retrieved in the towns:
decorated items are very rare and instead of flat thickened rims, it is inverted rims that
predominate, apparently belonging to jars and containers. The artifact scatter extends to
the south of the courtyard structure. There are no visible structures, however, associated
to these materials. We interpret the activity area as a possible trading zone, perhaps
where caravans were unloaded, animals kept and merchants and locals met to exchange
goods. According to Thareani-Sussely (2007: 126), South Arabian ethnographers report
the existence of an open space that is located next to the merchants’ quarters and the
market that enables caravans to leave their camels.
The chronology of the site coincides with the heyday of the Adal Sultanate
(1415-1559). This could explain the construction of the fort, which is in strike contrast
with the ruined settlements, which lack fortifications. Qalcadda attests to the changing
sociopolitical context during the fifteenth and sixteenth century, which sees the general
decline of towns in a climate of violence and war with the Ethiopian kingdom, which
made frequent forays into the country, and the expanding Oromo (Lewis 1960: 222224). The fort can also be seen as a manifestation of the control of long-distance trade
by the state, a panorama that again tallies well with the period of the Adal Sultanate. We
know that forts and castles are erected at that time by other powers, such as the
sultanates of Ajuran and Warsangali. The location of the fort in a strategic position,
between coast and mountain and along a key route, could plausibly be related to the
exaction of tribute. However, the relationship of the building that we identify as a
caravanserai and the fort is not clear. At present, we cannot ascertain that they are
synchronous, although the surface materials look quite similar. Yet the caravan station
seems to have had a complex architectural history, judging from the walls with different
orientations that suggest additions, reconstructions or modifications. Only further open
area excavations will help us interpret the site. Archaeological parallels for waystations
and caravanserais in Sub-Saharan Africa before modern times do not abound—for a
nineteenth-century example see Chami et al. (2004). We can mention the site of Tabot
(Magid 2004), which is a unique example of an ancient inland cavanserai, the medieval
site of Yendi Dabarai in West Africa (Mitchell 2005: 165),
and, much closer to
Qalcadda’s chronology, that of the port of Suakin (Insoll 2003: 99), both in Sudan.
The nomadic landscape
The landscape that we have described up to this point lacks a crucial element: the
nomads. Towns, ports and trading stations were just a part, perhaps not the most
important, of the cultural landscape of Somaliland between 1000 and 1900 AD. The
countryside was then, as still is today, inhabited by nomadic groups. Of these, very little
is known. The main source of evidence is burial monuments (cairns and other kinds of
tombs) that dot large parts of the landscape (Chittick 1992). During our work, we
mapped hundreds of burial sites, including isolated tombs, clusters and extensive
necropolises. They are not located at random: they tend to cluster along the main routes
connecting coast and interior, at important natural crossroads and near fords in wadis
(Mire 2015: 127). There is a variety of tombs that likely has a chronological reading,
not incompatible with others (sociopolitical and geographical). To date, only simple
cairns have been excavated on the coast (Chittick 1992) and they have variously
furnished early Roman (Ballat 1996), Late Antique (Chittick 1992) and even
nineteenth-century materials (Lewis1961). The largest cairns, such as those recorded
near Qubuuraale, seem to be among the oldest structures, if not the oldest. Other
structures include the circular tombs with slabs from Gidheys, large rectangular stone
platforms (as documented in this same site), small cairns, rectangular cairns, cairns with
a perimeter ring (either circular or rectangular) and cruciform tombs (see also Davies
2013). Many cairns use different kinds of stones (such as basalt and sandstone) to
produce chromatic effects that make the structures visible from afar. Before a variety of
tombs is excavated, we will be unable to offer a chronology and even less to understand
their place in the social process of Somaliland and their relationship to long distance
trade.
During our fieldwork, we had the chance to study a site that is particularly
relevant for understanding the nomadic landscape of Somaliland. The site, known as
Iskudar, lies in the Golis Mountains, at the edge that separates the coastal plain and the
highlands, a location that is redolent of Qubuuraale. The name Iskudar means
“aggregation”, “mixing” or “combination” in Somali. This is what this site seems to do.
Iskudar lies in a natural crossroads: it is a small elevation located in the confluence of
three wadis. The site is surrounded by hills from all sides, but is easily accessible
through the water courses. It has an oval shape that covers around 3 hectares and is
surrounded by a stone fence of almost 700 meters (Figure 20). The fence is made of two
rows of stones and has roughly-hewn standing stones or stelae stuck in between the two
lines every couple of meters. Inside the perimeter there are large parts covered in rubble,
where it is virtually impossible to make out the outline of any feature. The NW part of
the enclosure, however, has many funerary structures, that are relatively well preserved:
these are stone rings and clusters of cists. There is also a cruciform tomb, flanked by
two massive stelae and surrounded by a wall, which is located at some distance from the
main group of structures, and another one outside the perimeter and next to the river,
both of them looted. The walls of four rectangular structures were also identified,
including a large structure that has almost the same shape and dimensions as the
building QUB04 in Qubuuraale, that we identified as a possible mosque: 140 square
meters. In addition to the burials within the enclosure, the accesses through the valleys
are flanked along several kilometres by large cairns and stone circles, which form a sort
of ritual avenues. Interestingly, no similar cairns were found inside the site itself.
Figure 20 A. General map of Iskudar.1: Cruciform tombs; 2. Areas covered in rubble; 3. Area with
remains of feasting activities; 4. Cists cluster; 5. Structures; 6. Cists cluster; 7. Spaces delimited by
partition walls. Triangles indicate original entrances to the site. The asterisk indicates the finding of
the marvered glass. B. Incense burner found amid faunal remains in Locus 5. C. Detail map of the
area with faunal remains (nº3 in general map).
The date of the four types of funerary monuments (cairns, stone rings, cists and
cruciform tombs) is difficult to ascertain (Figure 21). We did not have the time to
excavate any of the large cairns, but, as noted above, these are probably the oldest
monumental funerary structures in Somalia, judging from the results of previous
excavations, which have yielded materials as early as the first century AD (Ballet 1996:
821, 825). The cists, in turn, are probably the most recent. They are often marked with
two stelae and strongly resemble Islamic burials. However, they are usually not oriented
in the direction of Mecca (definitely not in the case of Iskudar) and they are not
identified as Muslim by any of the local communities with which we had the
opportunity to broach the issue. In fact, several of the cists had been looted by people
from the local community—the same fate met by some of the large cairns and the two
cruciform tombs, thus confirming the disconnection between the present people and the
ancient burials in the local imagination. The similarities with Islamic tombs may
indicate some kind of influence from them, though, and therefore a relatively recent
chronology. More important, perhaps, is a stratigraphic argument: a cluster of cists
appeared annexed from the outside to the perimeter wall (nº 6 in the map), probably
because the space inside the enclosure was already occupied. After being given
permission by the elders of Iskudar, we excavated one of the cists that looked intact. In
fact, there was a layer of small white stones covering the space delimited by slabs,
which often seals this and other tombs. However, we could only find three small
fragments of human bones and not a trace of funerary offerings. The bones are a
fragment of right rib, a possible fragment of sacrum or coxal and a fragment of the first
right metacarpian, all belonging to an adult or several adults. There is no physicochemical reason for the bad preservation of the bones, as well-preserved human bones
have turned up in the surface3 and faunal remains during excavation (see below), so we
can only hypothesize that the burial was disturbed and for some reason the layer of
white stones restored at some later point.
3
Including a femur and fibula that appeared together in the area of the perimeter wall disturbed by
bulldozers. They belong to an adult of indeterminate sex but with a height of over 1.70 m.
Figure 21 Typology of tombs: Cist from Iskudar that was excavated in cluster nº4 in the map; cists
cluster from Matagiso (Geri) similar to thouse found in Iskudar; stone ring from Xabaalo
Tumaalod, similar to those found in Iskudar but with a cist burial in the middle and a secondary
cairn (instead of a main cairn); C. Cruciform tomb from Xabaalo Tumalod, similar to those of
Iskudar. The dark grey stone indicates a stela.
Cruciform tombs were first reported in Somaliland by Mire (2015). They have
the layout of a segmented Greek cross made with large slabs stuck into the ground. It is
usually marked with huge, roughly hewn stelae, usually two, which can be over two
meters high. As we have pointed out, the two cruciform tombs had been looted recently.
We were told by the diggers that seven complete decorated pots were found along with
many bones. We cleaned the burial and were able to retrieve several fragments of
incense burners decorated by impression, similar to those documented in Bulahar and
Bagan, which would situate the tomb around the first half of the second millennium
AD. In addition, we visited a necropolis with two cruciform tombs near Berbera called
Xabaalo Tumaalod (“Cemetery of the Blacksmiths”) (cf. Mire 2015: 124). The burials
here were untouched, but around them we found cowries, fragments of hand-made and
wheel-made pottery and a bottom of monochrome green-glazed ware, all of which can
be roughly dated around the same period as Bagan and the early levels of Bulahar. Due
to their cruciform shape, the tombs are considered Christian by the local population
(also Mire 2015: 127-128). The existence of rich funerary offerings inside the tombs
would run against this interpretation, but the perfect East-West orientation marked by
the position of the stelae and the Greek-cross shape are, at least, intriguing. Cruciform
graves seem to cluster in the area south of Berbera and Bulahar (see Mire 2015: map 4).
Stone rings are circular rubble walls with either a cist or a cairn in the middle.
We might have some chronological arguments. The northeastern part of the site had
been damaged by the excavation of an irrigation channel by bulldozers. The excavation
destroyed a large tract of the perimeter wall and adjacent area. The disappearance of the
wall, in turn, facilitated the erosion of the area (nº 3 in the map) which has exposed an
archaeological layer full of animal bones, ashes, charcoal, pottery, cowries and a single
tiny sea shell perforated to be used as a bead. The materials seemed to come from a flat
area surrounded by stone rings at least in part delimited by a rubble wall or terrace.
We conducted five shovel tests of 0.5 to 2 square meters, codenamed Loci 1-6.
The larger density of finds appear closer to the front of erosion to the north and they
become sparser and finally disappear towards the south. The largest amount of faunal
remains comes from Locus 3, the northern half of Locus 2 and Locus 5. More faunal
remains and pottery were found in burrows dug within the perimeter of another stone
ring further to the north (Locus 6). The majority of the finds are faunal remains. These
are still under study, but a first evaluation indicates the presence of sheep/goat
(MNI=5), cattle (MNI=2), camel, large birds, and perhaps some wild ungulates. Some
of the sheep/goat bones belong to immature individuals. Two fragments of wheel-turned
pottery were also found, and indigenous hand-made pottery decorated with incised
designs. In Locus 5, we found an incense burner, as we saw, mixed with the bones.
Many of the bones show cuts and fleshing marks made with iron implements. This is
clear evidence of feasting, probably related to the burials: the layer of bones appears at
only 20 cm underneath the surface. We dated charcoal samples from Locus 3 and 5.
Locus 3 furnished a date of 827 ± 24 BP (cal. AD 1166-1260). The charcoal from Locus
5 was dated to 663 ± 20 BP (cal. AD 1276-1393)4. The lack of overlap between both
dates can be tentatively interpreted as recurring feasting activities taking place in the
burial area.
4
Locus 3: D-AMS 015990; Locus 5: D-AMS 015991.
Apart from this eroded area, few artifacts turned up on the surface of the site: a
dozen hand-made pottery sherds, some decorated by incision, fragments from two
different hand-made incense burners (which again point towards the ritual use of the
site), and half a dozen undiagnostic wheel-turned sherds. Local pottery is crude,
compared to that documented in the towns, although the shapes (thickened inverted rims
and horizontal handles) are similar. The most significant finds are a complex rim from
an Indian wheel-turned cooking pot, which has a long chronology from the ninth to the
sixteenth centuries AD (Rougeulle 2015: 458, fig. 301) and a fragment of marvered
glass from a perfume bottle. Marvered glass is typical of the Ayyubid period in Egypt,
with a heyday in the twelfth -thirteenth centuries AD (Whitcomb 1983: 102-103; Lester
1996: 212; Rougeulle 2015: 328-329, fig. 236), a chronology that is consistent with our
radiocarbon dates. The bottle was probably part of a funerary offering.
Before more excavations are undertaken we cannot know whether the site has a
more ancient origin, as is probably the case, or a later existence. In any case, if the
Islamization of Somaliland starts from the coastal towns by the end of the twelfth or the
beginning of the thirteenth century, as Fauvelle-Aymar et al. (2011) surmise, then it
makes sense that a large pagan sanctuary existed in the mountains during the early
second millennium AD. Its decline can perhaps be associated to the rise of the Adal
Sultanate at the beginning of the fifteenth century, when Islam is already well
established in Somaliland.
To understand the landscape of Iskudar, we have to take into account not only
the sanctuary and the funerary avenues leading to the site, but also a large oval
enclosure, known as Gamada, situated on top of a hill overlooking the ritual center.
Nothing can be seen on the surface, except for the rubble wall that surrounds a space of
around 7.5 hectares. The wall is 950 meters long and between 1 and 2 meters thick,
which implies an enormous investment of labor. A similar, and equally empty,
enclosure was documented by Chittick (1976: 130-131) in Wargaale. We suggest that
the enclosure could be the space of a large campsite where the nomads coming to
perform the rituals at Iskudar could reside temporarily in mat and brush huts. The lack
of stone structures is consistent with the nomadic lifestyle and the short occupations,
which would have left little trace in terms of residues, as most activities would have
taken place in the ritual enclosure at the valley bottom.
The complexity of the site, the landscape and the activities that were carried out
in it clearly indicate that this was more than a cemetery. We can infer that nomads from
different areas came to Iskudar through pre-established routes—a sort of pilgrimage
ways— which were marked with large cairns and tombs. In Iskudar, they buried and
honored their dead and performed rituals that included the collective consumption of
animals and the use of incense. The slaughter of valuable animals, such as young
specimens and cattle, are suggestive of the important investment made in these feasts.
The wheel-turned pottery and the unguentarium evince the participation of nomads in
the long-distance trade network. A cursory GIS analysis (Figure 22) shows that Iskudar
lies outside any of the optimal routes leading from the coast to the highlands, unlike the
towns and caravanserai discussed above, which lie directly along them. At the same
time, Iskudar as a natural crossroads, was a place of confluence, as the modern name
indicates. It was probably the sacred nature of the site, not its strategic location, that
attracted people: it responds to a logic that has nothing to do with the trade and a lot
with nomadic patterns of movement and indigenous cultural values.
Figure 22 To the left, map of the ritual site of Iskudar and the stone enclosure of Gamada. The
symbols indicate cairns. To the right, GIS analysis of optimal routes in the vicinity of Iskudar. It is
necessary to make a detour from any main route to go to Iskudar. The place, however, lies in a
confluence of minor routes.
Conclusions
In this article, we have presented evidence collected in two archaeological field seasons
in NW Somaliland (2015 and 2016). Although we have only started to scratch the
surface of the country’s rich archaeological heritage, we have been able to collect
significant data for the study of long-distance connections in Somaliland and the
indigenous communities that participated in it. This has been largely possible thanks to
previous research work in the area undertaken during the last decade both by the
Somaliland authorities and by archaeologists (Fauvelle-Aymar and Hirsch 2011; Mire
2015). We have drawn upon this pioneer work and tried to cast more light on the
articulation of landscape during the second millennium AD by mapping significant
sites, doing intensive surveys of those sites, collecting representative materials and
conducting sondages to obtain datable materials.
Recent archaeological work in the Horn of Africa is offering a more complex
picture of the late first and second millennia AD—a period that has traditionally
received little attention in contrast to earlier ages. The world that is emerging is one of
interactions with the wider world and cosmopolitan communities (Insoll 1997; Hirsch
and Fauvelle-Aymar 2011; Insoll et al. 2014; Mire 2015), but also of complex and
diverse indigenous societies of which little or nothing was known before (Hirsch and
Fauvelle-Aymar 2004, 2008; Fauvelle and Poissonnier 2016). Our work in Somaliland
adds to this increasingly rich panorama. Thus, sites like the nomadic sanctuary of
Iskudar and its surroundings reveal the existence of a virtually unknown indigenous
society, which produced impressive monuments and performed rituals likely involving a
diversity of clans coming from a large territory. Places like the coastal site of Bender
Abbas are witness to the presence of diasporic communities living in their own
settlements along the Somali coast but interacting in different ways with indigenous
groups. Coastal sites, however, where not just foreign outposts: the documentation of
indigenous materials and religious practices in the port of Bulahar offers a glimpse at
the role of local groups in the creation of trading centers. The wealth of imports
documented in this and other ports, such as Bender Abbas or Zeila, speak of a
millennium of connections with distant and not so distant places: China, Japan, India,
Egypt, Yemen and Iran. The products that were imported include fine wares, perfume
and personal ornaments (beads, cowries and bangles). These categories seem to change
little during at least a thousand years, although their consumption undoubtedly changed
through time and in different contexts. From written sources we know that incense was
one of the main exports of Somaliland; yet the appearance of incense burners in each
and every site that we surveyed suggests that this resin was also a crucial substance in
the local culture. Finally, a comparative study of ruined “towns” is showing the internal
diversity of the sedentary settlements of Somaliland. Overall, the picture that emerges is
one of complex articulations between nomads, town-dwellers, diasporic communities
and cosmopolitan merchants.
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